Press

Highlights

• "Jill Ralston recently brought her concept to Canada garment construction students to demonstrate its amazing adaptability as a fitting tool. Department head Rhonda Chaney loves the Fabulous Fit® Patented Fitting System.

"It's great for draping as well as for flat patterns," she relates. "Although it has found almost instant acceptance from professional costume designers and dressmakers, this is definately a product for the general public."

"In classes," explains Chaney," we show students how to fit for variations in the human body. With these pads under the body suit, we can change contours at will. It is a great learning situation for custom fitting. Clothes are nothing if they don't fit."

The Patented Fitting System comes in a standard size. The foam pads at first look like a collection of shoulder pads. Wrong. Each pad is shaped to conform to a particular area of a woman's body. Each one is labeled for suggested body position. Interchangeable, they adapt to any placement.

Any appropriately sized dress form will do.

The pads accommodate measurement changes on to more than seven inches. Measure the dress form. Measure your body. The "Catch" 22 Dress Forms & Fitting Secrets Revealed eBook will show you how.

Put the two-way stretch body suit over the dress form and slip the foam pads into place until the measurements of the form plus the pads equal yours.

"Instructor Mary Lou Lange is sold on the concept." Not only can you create uneven shoulders and hips, it comes with a special waist definer to adjust the dimension of the waist.

Once you set it up to your measurements, it's yours. "In classes", explains Chaney, we show students how to fit for variations in the human body. In the past, we've used the classic process of adding batting to the dress forms as they do in couture sewing.

With these pads under the body covers, we can change contours at will. It is a great learning situation for custom fitting. "Clothes are nothing if they don't fit!" Fit followed by comfort are the most important factors for me.

They are also the biggest voids in commercial and home-sewn garments. Fit is paramount in the Canada Fashion Design department. Chaney states, "We teach fit in all of our classes. We teach students to sculpt with fabric. In the stores, it is 'hanger appeal' that sells clothes.

That doesn't necessarily mean that the garment will fit your body. "Poor fit showcases the irregularities of the body," adds Lange. "Good fit makes everyone look good. Many of
our students are training to go into commercial design and the garment industry.

It is important for the industry to read contemporary body needs.
We train students to follow through with those needs."

- Marlo Faulkner (Times Correspondent) -

"A fantastic new product called FABULOUS FIT®, will transform your dress form into your own silhouette. Re-create your dowager's hump, uneven shoulders or tummy.The possibilities are endless. It includes a set of foam pads and a bodysuit with a two-way stretch."

- Sandra Betzina (Power Sewing) -

"FABULOUS FIT ® is a wonderful new product for dressmakers (as well as an anyone who sews) because it allows you to duplicate the exact shape of your body. (Not just dimensions, but shape!)"

- University of Kentucky -

"FABULOUS FIT® takes away the mystery of draping that has kept many of us from even trying to drape. I love the dress form, adore the dress form. It looks just like me."

- Sally Cowan (Keeping You In Stitches) -

"JUST LIKE ME...Never thought you'd find a dress form that looked just like you? Search no more. This dress form comes complete with repositionable foam pads specifically shaped to add inches to the areas where your natural "padding" is and two knit bodysuits for a smooth finished form. A complete guide on dealing with special figure areas also is included."

- Jennifer Keltner (Editor Sew News) -

Thanks so much and again, this form is absolutely perfect, there was a slightly change I made to the thighs with the padding, but that was it! I can't believe how much easier it is to create a pattern using the dress form than it was by trying it on my daughter.

I can try it on as many times as I want and the dress form doesn't complain! Next, when I get some extra money, I'll have to get one in my size, but that'll have to wait for awhile. Again, Thanks for your patience and your help.

- Laura Daniels -

"The common complaint is that "Patterns don't fit me!" We all have a different set of measurements, even though we may use the same size pattern. Pre-fittiing avoids disasters! I've worked with a wonderful new dress form called FABULOUS FIT®. You can actually duplicate the curves of your body."

- Eunice Farmer

"I assure you that, having used FABULOUS FIT® a number of times, it really does result in a perfect fitting garment. Fabulous Fit® has become an indispensable tool in my studio."

- Marijana Frielich (The Professional Association of Custom Clothiers) -

"Designer and motion picture costumers are raving about Fabulous Fit® created by clothing designer-manufacturer Jill Ralston."

- Kerry Moore (Fashion Reporter) -

"Nothing saves more time, money or frustration than draping...especially in learning to sew or design! FABULOUS FIT® is the perfect way to create your current look-alike."

- Good News Rag -

Thanks for your help. I successfully completed "my form" yesterday. I did find that by adding at the shoulders to the neckline first for a little height, I was able to get my "gravity laden" bust line in good proportion with the basic form's proportions. I also put in a little wrap across the upper back for a minimal Dowager's hump. That helped in my back measurement from the occipital bone to the waist. (18") Your recommendation of putting the pads under the wrap were excellent.

I did use the thigh pads at the side waists. I did try on some clothes and the form is right on! It is also very smooth. Really looks good. Thank you. I already had your pants article from Vogue Pattern Magazine (1997). I am doing pants on it right now. Thank you for getting me into doing everything right.

That was good. I have no sewing community here in Vermont. Since you are in NY, if you ever come to Vermont during leaf peeping season, like to go soaring (sailplanes), or ski at Sugarbush or Mad River in the winter, I would really like you to call me. My husband and I are both ex-ski instructors. You could check up on my dress form? Anyway, thank you for the way you helped me. I needed the push. Thanks.

- Louise Messner, Sugarbush, VT. -

Fabulous Fitting Pants

Still looking for that fabulous pair of pants? Here's how! Today, pants are an essential part of every woman's wardrobe. You'll see them everywhere, from the park to the office to an elegant evening on the town. And, there are as many different pants silhouettes as there are places to wear them! But shopping for ( or sewing) comfortable, good-looking pants often proves challenging for many women.

This is because very few people have a figure that matches the standardized body measurements of ready-to-wear manufacturers (and pattern companies) - even if you vary just a little bit. What is the solution? Taking some time to develop a basic pants pattern that fits you well, looks good, and feels comfortable! Then use that customized pattern to design your own pants through the art of draping!

The Dress Form

A dress form makes it easy to develop a good fitting pair of pants, and is essential for draping new designs. It is usually easier to check fit and style on a dress form than to contort your body trying to see the entire garment in a mirror. A dress form also eliminates the bother of repeated fittings and the need for help from a second person. While it is possible to fit pants directly on your body, it is close to impossible to drape and design on the body.

To begin, take careful measurements, wearing proper undergarments. For the best possible fit, use a form that matches your body and singularities. The Fabulous Fit dress form is sold with a kit that contains contoured foam pads that slip under a two-way stretch knit cover to give the dress form "personalized and life-like curves"

Measure the following:

(A). Waist
High hip (at the top of the (hip bones, approx. 2-4"/ 5 -10 cm below the waist.)
Full hip (the fullest part of the hip, usually 7-9" / 18-23 cm below the waist.)

When fitting on a pattern tissue, the crotch length and crotch depth measurements, which are difficult to measure accurately, are also needed

(B). In draping, these areas are fit, rather than measured, directly on the body.
Use your circumference measurements to pad the dress form to match your body shape
and size, and to determine the appropriate pattern size. Select the pattern size based on the largest lower body Perfecting the Fit measurement. An easy fitting pant pattern, such as Elements #9635, is a good choice.

If you are planning to make pleated pants, it is best to start with a pleated pants pattern as it is easier to remove the pleats during draping than to add pleat fullness later. Make any obvious circumference adjustments to the pattern tissue and then cut the pants out of muslin or gingham. Machine baste pleats, darts, side seams, inseams, and crotch seam. Try on the basted pants and pin the zipper opening closed. The pants should hang straight from the hip without wrinkles, sagging or pulling. Inseams and side seams should hang perpendicular to the floor, the pants should feel comfortable when walking, sitting, standing or bending. Adjust the fit if necessary by taking in or letting out fabric along the sideseams. Work from the fullest part of the body up toward the knees.

If they are large, pin in the fullness and trim away the excess after the "test" is complete. The next crucial fit considerations are the depth and length of the crotch seam. If the "rise" (crotch depth) is too long, the pants will feel uncomfortable and make your legs appear short. If the crotch depth is too short, the pants will have unsightly wrinkles at the crotch and upper thighs. To shorten the depth of the "rise"

(C): On the pattern tissue, measure up 1/4" (6mm) from the crotch point and retrace the shape of the curve. If the crotch seam feels extremely long, measure up 1/2" (13mm), and continue in 1/4" (6mm) increments until you achieve the best fit. To lengthen the depth of the "rise"

(D): On the pattern tissue, measure down 1/4" (6mm) from the crotch point and retrace the shape of the curve. If the crotch seam feels extremely short, measure down 1/2" (13mm) and continue in 1/4" (6mm) increments until you achieve the best fit. NOTE: The front and back pattern pieces may not need the same adjustments. For example, the front may need to be shortened, and the back may need to be lengthened.

Recut and baste the muslin with the new crotch seam and try the pants on again. It may be necessary to adjust the length of the crotch as well as the depth. To correct the crotch length, add or remove at the crotch point and if necessary, at the waistline. Make these adjustments in increments of 1/4".

Although making two or more "test" pants may seem tedious, it is well worth the time. Once you have identified the necessary adjustments, you can confidently cut and sew all your pants patterns, knowing they will fit perfectly. Creative Draping Now is the time to get creative! Release the inseam basting stitches and pleats (if the muslin features pleats) so that the pants resemble a long skirt. Slip the pants over the padded dress form. Pin the center front and back seams, including the zipper opening, to the center front and back of the dress form. (6mm) until you achieve the best fit.

(E). Although from here, you can design any of the newest or most classic styles by simply working with the pants on "your body" (the padded dress form). Create your most flattering silhouette. Shape, fold, pinch, pleat…you are the designer. Experiment with the number and length of the darts; the fullness and direction of the pleats; the shape and location of the pockets. The variations are endless! Here are some helpful hints: Darts eliminate fabric fullness; Inverted pleats hide a protruding tummy. Large and low pockets draw attention to the hips. Gathers look softer than pleats.

It is not necessary for the right and left sides to be symmetric, because only one side will be used to mark and make the new "pattern". Pin pleats, darts, and other design features in place without removing the "test" pants from the dress form.
Pencil mark the pockets to check the best shape or distance from the side seams. Cut the waistband pattern piece, fold under the seam allowances and pin it onto the dress form.

Check to see that the height suits the pants design. Adjust if necessary. With a colored pen or chalk, mark all the seams and design features, including the pleats or darts, on the best looking half of the "test" pants to mark, draw dashed lines on each side of every pin, remove the pins and connect the markings to make seam lines and indicate design features.
After all marking is done, remove and remaining pins and slip the pants off the dress form.
Baste the inseam and then the crotch seam from front to back. Try on the pants.

Make any additional changes you desire. Once you are satisfied with the fit and style of the pants, pull out the basting stitches and either use this to cut your fashion fabric, or transfer all the markings to the pattern tissue. After you have cut your fashion fabric, baste the design features and side seams, and return the pants to the dress form for a final check of the fit and shape.

Finish sewing according to the pattern instructions.

You'll have a pair of pants with a Fabulous Fit!

- This article was written with Cathy Marone Vogue Patterns