We are happy to share some of our simple fixes from the Universal Fitting Solutions workshop. The examples are just some of the easy steps that will make all the difference in your fit. Really? Easy? You will be amazed! Everything you create should make you feel good, work together and most importantly have a fabulous comfortable fit. Creating timeless pieces that are practical for every day personal style can be easily accomplished when you follow a few simple guidelines in teaching your hands and your eyes to connect. You won't even wonder if the collar will slip back. It just won't happen! As always, we love your questions and comments, so do contact us!
What makes everything fit? Respecting the grainline.
The goal in fitting clothes is to keep the grainlines straight. If you’ve ever created clothes that twist or pull, check the grainlines! When the fabric falls over the curves of the body and the horizontal grainline is straight and perpendicular to the vertical grainline, the fabric will fall easily, and your clothes will move with you.
In order to keep the grainlines straight (this is the easy part) there are only two things you can do with the fabric. You can pinch and you can release. That’s it. When the grainlines are straight, your fabric will fall, and your fit will be fabulous.
Keeping the grainline straight on a dress form:
Always begin with an anchor point; the shoulder of your jacket, the waist / hips of your pants, or the under bust of your bustier. From here, you can make all of the adjustments in size and shape while keeping the grainlines straight. The step by step Fitting Sequence is like following a recipe. Here's how:
Creating a balance in your clothes:
Your clothes will have new meaning when you follow the steps of the “Fitting Sequence”, starting with your “anchor” then making changes and adjustments to straighten the grainline, at every area. This video shows how the shoulder line is used as the anchor for the jacket. This example can be to absolutely any curve for movement.
The Shoulder Line:
In order give a round or forward shoulder line movement, bring the shoulder line forward by adding length and width to the back at the shoulder area. The added ease will allow your jackets to anchor at the shoulder line and comfortably move without slipping back or forward. Always remember: "for every action there is a reaction". Therefore, if you add to the back shoulder, you must remove the same amount of fabric from the front shoulder, as shown in the video. Here's how.
Ease is about the movement that your fabric needs in order to fall over the curves of the body. An "ease" is a small gathering stitch that allows extra fabric for movement, and is completely pressed out in finishing. This can be done wherever there is extra roundness or movement in the body…such as “love handles”, thighs, shoulders, or stomach. Ease can be used to straighten a front grainline that is no longer straight as it falls over a curve. A simple ease in the side seam right at the bust area in the front, for example, will allow for extra movement as the fabric falls over the curve.