We all move with pressure points in just the same way. We move at the shoulders, elbows, torso, waist, the upper hip, and for sure at the bottom! When fitting clothes, these points will stand out as the grain lines of the fabric change when your body moves. The soft pads in the Fitting System are designed to match these reference points on the dress form to give the fabric freedom to move with you (ease). You will see the stress or the bags in your clothes at every area when the contoured pad is positioned at exactly the stress point of your body on the dress form. This is where you will see the adjustment that needs to be made by pinching or releasing fabric to straighten the grain line, right on your form. a very different body from top to botto
how to choose my dress form size?
Always choose the dress form size using the smallest horizontal measurement ranging between your bust and hip line. If your bust, for example, is 34 and your hips are 38, you will need Size 4, as it will match your smallest horizontal measurement. You can always pad up to shape the form.
my shoulders are sloping, and forward...
The soft contoured Shoulder Pads can be rotated forward to give the shoulder of the dress form the altered point at the neckline; matching the forward shoulder line. Be sure to check the pressure point of the forward shoulder by measuring horizontally from the center front to the armseye right at the point of the shoulder.
my bust is very high, low, large...
Bust Pads can be positioned to reflect a high bust line by placing the flat edge of the pads toward the shoulder line of the dress form.
A low bust line can be duplicated by placing the flat edge of the pad toward waist line and with the round position lower on the dress form.
Since you are building out the horizontal measurements of the dress form, you can also raise or lower the pads on your form for petites to very tall.
A bustier bust line is duplicated really well by using the Shoulder Pads. All of the pads are interchangeable for varying shapes in every area, but the Shoulder Pads do the trick for a bustier bust line.
A small bust line is created by using a form with a smaller bust and then padding out the sides with the contoured Side Back Pads. By placing the pads slightly toward the side front, you will "erase" the contour of the perkier bust on the dress form.
A large bust line can be matched with two Bust Pads made into a circle or a Filler Pad under the bust for a much fuller shape. Measure the vertical bust point either with the tape as a halter around your neck (most accurate) or straight down from the top of the bra strap to the bust point. Measure bust point to bust point for the horizontal measurement.
my whole body is assymmetrical...
This one is a challenge... but when you see how the dress form matches the curves of the body, you will also see how the curvature of the spine affects the natural flow of the fabric, which causes it to pull, twist or pinch uncomfortably. Allowing for the singularities on your dress form will not only give your clothes a natural silhouette, but everything you create will feel comfortable to wear.
my back is wide...
Be sure to choose a dress form that is one size smaller than your bust line. You will be able to build out the back with the Side Back Pads to create a wider body from side to side while matching your full bust measurement on the dress form.
my vertical measurements are long or short...
As you build out the form horizontally, you can easily raise or lower the pads at any area about 2 inches. Just be sure that the waist measurement is smaller than yours, as you will need to "erase" the hourglass of the dress form with the Side Back Pads (placed along the side of the form).
How does the body cover work?
Start from the top with regular style forms (without legs) or at the bottom for full forms (with legs). Stretch the body cover down (or up-over) the form to the first area. Reach under the cover and stretch the first pad along the surface of the dress form as you measure and match your new padded shape. Retake the measurement, noticing the pressure point (movement area) where your new shoulder and bust points are. Try something of your own on the form.
I need multiple sizes with one dress form!
For different clients and body shapes, start by shaping the smallest body on your dress form without thinking about the larger shape. Finish with both covers as though you were ready to start creating. Then consider the difference between the two bodies and where you will need to make the changes. Some of the pads could be left over from the first Fitting System, so you can simply buy another cover and create the next body right on top. You will find that even adding a complete Fitting System over an original set can create an entirely different shape and size from the original body.
can I adjust the vertical waist on the Half Leg Form?
Yes! You will need to match the vertical waist position on the form to your actual vertical waist position. Measure the rise (front waist to back waist through the legs) and compare it to your own. Mark the waist position of the rise on the form, front and back, and match your horizontal waist shape with the stomach or side back pads. It's important to choose a dress form size that is smaller than you are because when you build the form out with the pads, you can place the waist on the form higher or lower to match your vertical rise at the waist. The torso of the form is softly tapered so it allows for the one to two inch vertical rise adjustment. The hip pads and upper hip pads can be placed at a higher or lower position to create the lower hip line.
will it take long to match my shape?
Come on guys...this is all about creating!
It’s about how much time you will save when you are creating your clothes, and how easy and fun it is when everything in your closet is that "go to piece" that you love. Don’t rush this step! It could take a little while or it could take 10 minutes. The more you do it the less time it takes because visually you will start to see and remember what that shape looks like. This is also something that will show up in fitting your clothes because you have seen that curve, the collar slipping back, or the seam pulling, before you ever finish all of those stitches and try it on to see how it feels.
The difference between "hand-made" and "loving hands, made at home", I swear, is the ripping. Once that dress has seen 3:00 a.m. with ten "pull-a-parts" it’s never, ever the same.
So follow the steps and shape the body of the dress form.
Then take an honest look at what you feel most comfortable in and try that piece on the dress form. You can always find a pattern that looks similar to something you love (that you have now worn to shreds) and change the pattern to match the curves of your body; with silhouette and proportion, and start right there.
Can I do this by myself
Yep! Your clothes will be your best fitting assistant, even if you don’t have someone nearby to measure (Be sure to measure your upper chest and bust with arms down at your side). Just try something of your own on yourself and then try it on the dress form as you measure and match the fit of each area. Matching your shape on the dress form is so different for fitting clothes. This is where the feel fabulous in your clothes kicks in! When the dress form reflects the shape of your body, (or your fit model’s body) you can see the changes. Forget ripping.
One can only imagine how many times a great pattern can be tweaked into yet another new design!