easy, comfortable, fabulous sleeves!
Many people blame fitting issues on sleeves. Nope...Check the bodice...Match the armhole to your body shape. (Looks like the shape of an egg tipped forward). Alter your pattern by "pinching / releasing" fabric on your dress form. It's visual.
Allow for ease width throughout the sleeve.
Top: 1 to 3 inches ease
Wrist 1 to 2 inches ease; depending on the style, of course.
The ease at the inside arm crease at the elbow, is invisible when pressed.
Check the blue dots for movement areas. If your jacket is narrow, be sure to add the extra pattern push under the arm for movement.
If the elbow of the Sleeve does not match the elbow position of the body, adjust it by adding or subtracting fabric at the vertical elbow position.
The perfect jacket moves with you...
Raise your arms, hug friends, or dance all night!
In working with designers and manufacturers worldwide, I can attest that sleeves are the #1 nemisis in fitting clothes. DO NOT LET THIS BE SO! By following a few simple steps, you will find that never again will you have that pull on your sleeve when you reach!
1. The bodice must be ready and fall perfectly straight, before setting in the sleeves.
2. Shoulders are the anchor, and must follow the slant of the shoulder line of the body. The grainline on the sleeve will fall straight; vertically, and horizontally; back shoulder to the wrist.
The armhole will follow the shape of your arm, and then drop at the crease of the arm for a classic sleeve; or curve higher for a skinny sleeve
Softer fabrics will generally need more ease at the elbow and sleeve cap.
If the sleeve is too long, or too short, pinch or release the fabric at the forearm.
Check the taper at the sleeve from elbow to wrist.
IT ALL STARTS WITH SHAPING YOUR
MATCH YOU SHOULDERS ON YOUR DRESS FORM! YOUR SLEEVE WILL FALL FROM THE ANCHOR OF THE SHOULDER.
Raise or lower by changing the curve.
Try the sleeve on the arm to test it for size, length, and elbow position. When the elbow is bent, the length of the sleeve should be at the wrist crease.
Create two rows of stitches on the sleeve cap for ease around the curve.
Begin by pinning the sleeve to the top of the shoulder; checking grainlines as you pin around the armhole, following your gathering stitch line..
Check the grainlines from the inside. You can easily sew through the double stitches on the sleeve cap. So smooth.