THINK: Outside the Closet!
Master the Art of Fitting Clothes
CHOOSE YOUR STYLE
Getting dressed is not always easy, but feeling great about how we pull it all together can be really fun. Inspiration can be as simple as a $13 pair of sterling silver earrings from the street vendor or a simple Chanel jacket created by you. “L’Instant”, says Chanel, with her fabulous pull on pants and sweater; her neck adorned with one small white flower. I love that.
When I think of life’s memories, the first thing that comes to mind is what I was wearing. Always. I love style. Style supersedes weight, height, body singularities, age, and can even lift a really bad mood. If you are new to this, stay close. No experience is necessary in learning to create fabulous clothes in your personal style.
AN EASY WAY TO SIMPLIFY
Do you have anything in your closet that just feels like you? What fabric is it in? Pull it out and we will take a look. Is it the cut? The feel of the fabric? The color? Maybe it’s something you wear every day (think sweat pants),that can easily transform into silk, wool, or linen to be worn on every occasion and look fabulous.
The best way to start a closet or a lifestyle collection is to start with a few basic pieces; thus we always start with the favorite dailies. Analyzing why you gravitate to wearing certain clothes is always an eye opener. Maybe you have several pieces you love or maybe not. If not, go to your photographs and recall a time that was absolutely fabulous. What were you wearing and how did you feel? (This cannot be about your wedding dress with the 25 ft long train or if you were hypothetically, 30 lbs. lighter and 30 years younger).
If you are still at a loss, and many people are, just get as close as you can to something we can work with. Anything.
The take-away from this is to re-create what works. The translation can be as simple as Palazzo pants, a straight skirt with heels,and an unmatched sweater set, or that Chanel “l'instant” created by you. If the clothes feel good, and the color and proportions are right, you will know what I am saying. It’s the energy. People notice. No one knows what suits you best better than you do. Style is about paring down your wardrobe to a few pieces that work together. It’s simple. If something in your closet doesn't make you feel comfortable, confident, happy, or sexy it might be wasting space.
In my work, we start with storyboards. In my collections, ( and closet) I start with storyboard piles. Inspiration is where it all begins. Many designer collections are inspired by snowflakes, or sand on the beach; but that so far has never been my inspiration for designing clothes. Seems sad. I am inspired by the streets. When I start thinking about what I am creating, I jam through my iPhone for lost pictures of strangers who couldn't wait to show off their new "put together" for colors or clothes; like wearing serious construction boots, way before the runway found them. I forget about why I didn't feel inspired. The roll begins. The storyboard will give you direction. So that's where we start.
We all put together storyboards. From this collage of inspiration (which can be anything from pattern covers to magazine photographs) you will begin to discover a trend for your colors, necklines and statement. Trendy, flashy, bling, classic...it all shows up. Colors show up too.
Great clothes create energy and a few really thought out pieces will simplify your life. In real life, I work until the last minute before I leave for a trip (I think we all do), but I am completely confident that whatever I grab for my suitcase works. I don’t even think about it. When I finally relax at the airport, I sigh and wonder at the ease with which the look came together. It’s because it was already planned, way in advance, when I found those very few pieces that work together. Similarly, should your best trip plans go astray (sometimes they do), with simplicity, your clothes can change plans with you.
Once you understand the proportions of your body, your easy wardrobe and individual style just follows. Maybe it's adjusting a waistline to hide that holiday pooch, or layering fabric to create an uneven hemline to hide an uneven body. The list goes on and on. Not to mention the parts of our body we might want to embrace!
When you follow our simple, yet designer-level philosophy of anchoring fit and honoring grain lines, you'll laugh with disbelief at how easy it is to create clothes that make you feel powerful and comfortable every time you wear them.
TAKING A LOOK...THE MYSTERY OF MEASURING
Measuring your body is a matter of recognizing the key fitting points where fabric meets curve. MEASURE WHERE YOU MOVE! In duplicating your body on the dress form, it is the movement, or pressure points which need to be identified and shaped. Sometimes the best design finds its way through fixing a mistake; or undergoing a necessary change. When the body is duplicated on the dress form, you will see what changes need to be made in your design and how to make them. The Fabulous Fit Fitting System will make all the difference in replicating your unique body on the dress form.
Measure your shoulders, from shoulder bone to shoulder bone, across the back. This line will reflect a straight back or curve.
Pad the shoulder area. For a very round back, use a thigh pad or a side back pad to add a curve to the back shoulder area. For a round shoulder slope, rotate the shoulder pads forward..
Measure your shoulders from shoulder bone to shoulder bone in the front. Adjust the shoulder pads.
Always measure with your arms relaxed and released at your side.
1. High Chest. Across the front, from the middle of the arm hole. 2. Upper Chest. Circling around the body, under the arms, and just above the bust line. (This is the area that is closest to your frame, and will be the last to gain; or lose weight.) 3. Full Bust. 4. Under Bust. (If the under bust is not exact, it will not be a problem unless you are creating bustiers. Otherwise, any movement across the back will be reflected in the Full Bust measurement.)