easy, comfortable, fabulous sleeves!
#1 start with the bodice...
I have to say this again. When the bodice is correct on the form, your sleeve will slide onto the arm and into its opening with only a slight touch of the eye/hand connection because YOUR GRAIN LINE IS KEY!
Alter your pattern by "pinching / releasing" fabric on your dress form to straighten the grainline; with the bodice falling straight from the shoulders. You'll see the needed adjustments, by the grainline. It will never fail you! Keep it straight...and that does not mean by twisting, pressing or otherwise manipulating it to fall straight. Just let it fall straight.
If, for example, the front grain line is falling to the left, or to the right, on the front of your jacket...just raise, or lower the fabric at the shoulder, or at the neckline, until your bodice is straight. It looks like this.
Then...Match the armhole to your body shape. (It looks like the shape of an egg tipped forward). Alter your pattern by "pinching / releasing" fabric on your dress form to straighten the grainline.
The classic jacket sleeve seam will be 3/4 inch to the front of the jacket side seam, as seen in the picture above. (RED) The WHITE dot is the side seam. Ease at the top sleeve at the shoulder will allow the fabric to move, yet press out invisibly.
ease at the elbow position...
Alter your pattern by "pinching / releasing" fabric to straighten the grainline on the sleeve.
A well planned jacket sleeve stands on its own. The grainline falls straight from the top of the shoulder. Check the elbow ease on the arm on your dress form..